Well, sitting here at home, it seems strange to be here. A lot of men say their wives don't understand them. I'm lucky, mine dose, probably better than I do, and without her none of it would have been possible. Has it changed me? Not sure. I suppose family and friends will tell me that, but I feel much the same person as when I left. Although it was a pillgrim route, for me it was not a pillgrimage. I went to see the sights and enjoy the walking with an open mind and thought it might change my outlook on religion. Infact what it has done is to reinforce what I already felt. I have met some very kind people who have gone out of their way to help, or have given us food and drink. I have also met people who are not so nice. In both cases they have been a mixture of religious and none religeous people. The Camino has been discribed as a " get out of hell free card" my feelings are. Just because you go to churcuh, it dosen't make you a christian.
All in all I've had a great time. The places I've seen and the people I've met have been amazing. They say the camera never lies, but the photos don't do justice to the scenary, at times it was just breath taking. I've stayed in all sorts of places, from a preists garden and a convent, to a 4 star hotel it realy has been an experience. Would I do it again? Yes, to long distance walking, with some provisos. No to the Camino. The reason for that is the foot path in Spain is just an open sewer, the rubbish and the filth. If you could find a shady spot, it would have been used as a toilet. The bit I cant work out is, who dose it, the people I sat down and eat with in the evening, some must also be the people who abuse the countryside.
Once I got to Santiago I was a bit torn. Part of me would have liked to turn left and go through Spain and down through Portugal. But the bigger part of me wanted to come home. What I have learnt is that I can do without a lot of the material things in life, and I do like life on the road, but most of all I missed my wife, family and friends. Like they say " Home is where the heart is"
As for the kit, most of it lived up to expectation. I went through shoes quicker than I though I would and my spork broke, which was one of the most useful bits of kit. My sleeping bag was a bit on the thin side, in hindsight its better to carry a bit more weight and be warm. My solar pannel developed some dead spots, so in the end I had to buy a phone charger. My only real regret is I didn't have a better camera.
Well thats it. Thanks for looking and all the comments. "Adios" as they say
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I'm home!
Santander
Thanks for all the comments. It was nice to get here, a 9 hour coach ride, with a 1.5 hour stop off so the driver could have a rest. As the family arrived so did the bad weather. First rain we´ve had in 3 weeks. Staying in a very posh hotel, wich makes a change. Took a bus ride on a supra bus to Bilbao, leather seats, stewardess service and movies, just like being on a plane, to see the Guggenheim museum. Very strange place but well worth seeing. The outside is better than the inside. Must say most of the exhibits went straight over my head! On the afternoon boat back to Plymouth today. So the final update will be when I get home. I spose I can honestly say "See you soon"
Pics: The Guggenheim museum and one for Geoff, strange set up for a tricycle!





Santiago
Well we´re here ! 1850k give or take a few, in 86 days. Its amazing how far you can go by foot if you have the time. The walking through Galicia has been some of the best in Spain, full of small villages, small fields with live stock in and a mixture of vines and corn. They grow a lot of eucalyptus trees here, the smell as you enter the woods is realy powerful. Santiago is better than I was expecting. It was´nt very crowded, which made it more pleasent looking around. The Catedral is something else. The old town has narrow streets with overhaning buildings and has a good atmosphere. We got here yestoday. So today is chill out day and hopefully meet up with a few of the people we have met on route. Tomorrow we take the bus to Santander, 9 hours! and meet up with the family. How do I feel now the walkings over? Don´t know yet. I´ll let you know when I get home. Next post will be from Santander, with a bit of luck.
Pics: Portmarin, they flooded the original village, but befor they did they moved the church, stone by stone, you can still see the numbers ; Views of Galicia ; Al has now found somthing better than chocolate, chocolate with condensed milk underneath ; The finish point and Santiago Catedral.
Cacabelos
Hi All. Finally left the Meseta, YES! and now back into the mountains, much better. The walking is harder but much more rewarding. We have been told the last 2 weeks are the best. The pantiles have given way to slate again on the roofs which makes the towns look very different from a distance. The towns are much larger now with indusrtrial areas on the edges, but in the old parts of the town, the houses have jutted out balconies and are close together in small cobbled streets. Therehas been a gastro bug going arroud, but I´ve managed to avoid it so far, even though I awoke one night to find my room mate being seriously ill. Counting down the days now, less than 200k left. Seems hard to believe I´ll soon be home!
Pics; The longest bridge on the route, Some old bones in a church that was being renovated, A coulpe of houses, A pension we stayed at, the highest part of the Camino and Molinaseca
Leon
Well its been a while. We´ve been up on the Meseta, where time has stood still, so if there is internet its still on dial up. To give you an idea of what its like. Close your eyes, think ot the flatest flat thing you can, then make it flatter. Imagine a stright track running through the middle, and then it could either be pouring down with rain, or 30 deg. in the baking heat with no shade. THATS the MESETA. "They say the rain in spain" and all that, well its true. Its also been very cold. There was snow in the area we crossed the Pyrenees. Glad to say thats all changed now and we should be in for better weather. We´ve now covered 1500 k and on the last page of the map. On course to finnish a day early. Just worn out my second pair of shoes, so just got the sandals now, hope they last!
Pics; Sulpture just passed Pamplona, 3 of THE MESETA, Hontanas, caves they use to store wine, San Bol the remotest refuge. Use to be a lepper hospital and Al, she feels the cold and LOVES her chocolate fix in the morning
Logrono
Hi all, found myself a good, free internet room with decent laptops. We have now done just over 1200k and going well. We´ve gone through Zubiri, Pamplona, Maneru, Villamayer, Torres Del Rio to Logrono. The landscape is truly amazing. Flat planes with the towns rising up from them, most of them were fotrified. The weather has been good, hot and sunny most of the time. The food here is easier, so lots of omletts and corn tortllas. Meeting lots of new perigrino now. Some from Scotland and Ireland, but most are Dutch or German. The wine fountain was free, just press the button and very dry red wine comes pouring out. There is a sign saying dont abuse it, and also a webcam watching you!
Pics: Early morning crossing the Pyrenees, The Spanish boarder, The highest point of the Pyrenees, Roncevaux, Metal sculpture and widmills suplying Pamplona, a couple of landscaps, Eric at the fre wine fountain, A sight all to familiar rubbish pelagrino have left behind and comming into Lograno









Pamplona
Horah! were in Spain. We had a good day for crossing the Pyrenees, not to hot or cloudy. There are a lot more pilgrims this side of the mountain. Although the refuges are cheap, there also horrible. 60 to a dorm, all the bunks pushed together and not many showers or loos. Needless to say we stayed in b&b. A german said he had to wait 1.5 hours for a shower! The scenary is spectacular but there is also a lot of rubbish and toilet paper at the side of the trail, not so spectacular. Now we,ve got rid of the tents its much easier. Clocked over 1150k now. Think I,m still the same hieght?
Sorry no pics this time. Computers in Spain all seem to be rubbish, either no usb port or it dosen´t work. Maybe next time
more pics
A pelerin fountain, when you turn the handle on the top, fresh spring water comes out ( ice cold ) and the Stele de Gibralter, where the paths meet
St. Jean-Le-Vieux
Hi pep's,
Been a long time no access. We've now left the pine trees and the beach behind us, thing were getting a bit difficult, camp sites closed and no food in the site stores. we have now switched to the Tours route, which is more popular and better organised. Travelled down through Biscarrose, Eulalie Plage, Bios, Le Vignac, Taller, St Paul Le Dax, Peryhorde, Berguey, Uhart Mixe to St Jean-Le-Vieux. Since Taller we have been staying in hostels and Chambre D'hote. Some of the hostles are free, or you give a donation, others are very cheap. Most are well equiped with cookers and fridges etc. Taking a day off tomorrow to prepare for the big push across the Pyrenees. Now we're in the foot hills of the mountains its harder giong, spiolt by the flat of the Landes, its now long climbs and decents. the temp in the afternoon is now between 28 and 30. I'm now sitting in a bar, having an appreo, looking at the Pyrenees. Wow, its a hard life being a pelerin!!
Pics: the hall in Taller, The mosaic floor at Sorde L'abbey, The little chapel and the best Gite yet at Urhart Mixe


Arcachon
Well been on a couple of boat rides since Saujon, crossed from Royan to Montalivet across the Griande. then down the Atlantic coast through Hourtin, Lacanal, Corhot Ocean and then across the Arcachon basin on a little ferry to Arcachon. The scenary is much the same day after day. Stright roads and pine trees, or, endless beaches. The ferry to Acachon was fun, Incase of emergency, you had to follow the arrows, which were just painted on the floor and pointed to the back of the boat! Went up the Dune Pyla, the largest dune in Europe. 60 million cubic meters of sand. realy was quite amazing. Done 850 k and just about on target. Entered the Londe today. some of the houses in the old part of Acachon look like they belong to the Adams family.
Pics: The road got a bit boring, so we thought we'd go on the beach! the ferry to Arcachon, one for Laura me on dune Pyla, dune Pyla, Arcachon and Al and Eric on a dune





































